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Texas Hold 'Em poker: how to play and win at Texas Hold 'Em poker. Texas Hold 'Em poker

Tuesday, August 24, 2004

Texas Holdem Terms - Texas Holdem glossary

Act, An
An intentional tell intended to give false information about a hand.
Action
Bets or betting. "There's a lot of action on this table."
Ajax
The name of an Ace and Jack in the pocket, suited or otherwise.
All-in
Putting all of the chips you have at the table into the pot, creating a side pot for the remaining players.
Aggressive
Adjective to describe a player who raises and re-raises and rarely calls.
American Airlines
The name of a pair of Aces in the pocket.
Angle
An action that isn't against the rules, but still incorporates unfair tactics.
Angle-Shooting
Using unfair tactics.
Ante
The pot. The total amount being wagered upon.
Backdoor
Making a hand other than the one intended. Example: Having J/10 of Clubs with a flop of A of Clubs, 5 of Clubs. 6 of Spades. The turn and river are K & Q of Hearts. You made a straight instead of the intended (and more likely) flush.
Backraise
A re-raise from a player who originally called.
Bad Beat
When a good hand is beat by a longshot draw.
Bankroll
The amount of money you have.
Bet Odds
The odds you get as a result of evaluating the number of callers to a raise.
Bicycle or Bike
A Straight Ace to Five
Big Blind
The largest blind posted prior to the dealing of cards. This is usually the player sitting two seats to the left of the dealer.
Big Slick
The name of an Ace and King in the pocket. Suited or otherwise.
Blank
A useless card.
Blind
A mandatory bet placed before the cards are dealt to force money into the pot. You usually have to post a blind when you join a game.
Bluff
Betting even though you don't have a good hand.
Boat
A full house.
Board, The
1. The communal cards dealt face up in Hold 'Em that all players can use.2. The surface these cards are dealt onto. Typically a tabletop.
Bottom Dealing
A form of live cheating where the bottom card is usually preset and dealt instead of the top card.
Burn Card
In Hold 'Em, the cards before the flop, turn, and river that are discarded to prevent reading of marked cards.
Button
A symbol to designate which player is sitting in the dealer's position.
Buy-In
The necessary amount of money needed to join a game.
Call
Matching a bet amount.
Calling Station
A passive and loose player who does not raise much, but calls more than he or she should.
Cap or Capping
The idea that there can only be a raise, a re-raise, another re-raise, and one final re-raise. That's four bets total per player, per round, at most.
Cards Speak
Your hand is the most favorable possible combination of cards, no matter how you call it.
Cash Out
Taking your money and going home.
Check
When no bets are pending, to pass your turn.
Check-Raise
The act of calling, then re-raising a raise.
Cleaned Out
Being taken for all your money, in Hold 'Em or otherwise.
Clubs
One of the four playing card suits. Formerly representing the working class
Cold Call
To call more than one bet at once as result of a re-raise.
Collusion
A form of cheating where multiple parties help each other in deciding the best course of action.
Community Cards
Communal cards dealt face up in Hold 'Em that all players can use.
Computer Hand
Name of Queen and Seven in the pocket.
Connected
Two sequential pocket cards. Examples : 10/J or 3/4.
Cowboys
Kings
Dead Man's Hand
Two Pair of Aces and Eights. The hand Wild Bill Hickock was holding when Jack McCall shot him in the back.
Dealer
The man or woman who handles the cards, gives out the pots, and monitors the game.
Dealer's Position
Being the last to act in a betting round. On the button.
Diamonds
One of the four playing card suits. Formerly representing merchants.
Dominated Hands
Hands that are okay to play, but tend to lose against similar non-straight/flush hands. Example: A2 is dominated because against other hands with an Ace, it loses or draws without improvement.
Dominating Hands
Primo hands that are not only good, solid hands, but have lots of room for improvement.
Draw
1. A drawing hand.2. A game result where multiple players split the pot as result of having equal hands.3. To take a card from a deck of cards.
Drawing
Playing a hand to improve.
Drawing Dead
A drawing hand that will lose even if it improves.
Drawing Hand
A hand that needs improvement to win. Usually to a straight or flush.
Early Position
Being one of the first to act in a betting round. Usually a disadvantage.
False Shuffle
A form of live cheating where the deck is shuffled in a manner to prearrange the cards.
Flop
1. n. the first three community cards dealt face up on the table.2. v. used to describe what your hand was after the flop. "I flopped the nuts!"
Flush
Having a poker hand of five cards whose suits all match.
Fold
To give up your hand and forfeit the pot to the remaining players.
Four-of-a-Kind
A poker hand consisting of all four cards of the same type.
Free Card
The card you get as result of semi-bluffing from late or last position so that all the players check to you.
Full House
A poker hand consisting of three-of-a-kind and a pair. Worded as the three-of-a-kind being "full" of the pair. Example: Three Aces and Two Tens is verbally declared as a "full house, Aces full of Tens".
Grinding
Playing in a style with minimal risk and modest gains over a long period of time.
Gutshot Draw
A straight draw where only one card will complete the hand.
Hand
1. The complete playing of all the cards given out in one deal.2. The cards used by a player.
Heads-Up
When only two players are involved with a hand.
Hearts
One of the four playing card suits. Formerly representing the clergy.
High Limit
A game where the amounts wagered are high.
House, The
The establishment where a game is being held. It may be a casino in Las Vegas, a kitchen table, or an online casino's server in Antigua.
I Forget
What you say when someone asks, "So what did you have?"
Image
What kind of player others currently perceive you as.
Implied Odds
The odds you are getting after the assumed result of betting for the remainder of the hand.
Jackpot
A prize fund awarded to a player who meets a set of predetermined requirements. For example, some casinos will give a jackpot to someone who gets four-of-a-kind or higher and loses.
Kicker
In a tie hand between one pair, two pair, or three-of-a-kind, the remaining card(s) that make up the hand. The player with the highest card(s) wins.
Kill Game
A game where certain predetermined requirements creates higher stakes and/or create a third blind.
Late Position
Being one of the last to act in a betting round. Usually an advantage.
Limping
Calling a blind pre-flop without raising.
Live Hand
An active hand. One that has not folded.
Live Game
A game where you are physically near the other players.
Long Shot
Making a hand despite having few outs and/or poor odds.
Loose
Adjective to describe a player who plays lots of hands and gets involved with a lot of pots.
Low Limit
A game where the amounts wagered are small.
Main Pot
The first established pot before a player goes all-in and creates a side pot.
Maverick
The name of a Queen and Jack in the pocket. Suited or otherwise.
Mechanic
A player who has the ability to illegally manipulate cards for favorable results.
Middle Position
Being in between early and late position.
Mneumonics
Mental devices used to remember things. In Hold 'Em, often players have names for what pocket cards they have, like Big Slick or Maverick.
Muck
1. v. To discard your hand, especially after an opponent reveals a better hand.2. n. The discard pile.
No Limit
Considered one of the last true forms of poker, where the amount you can bet is limited by the number of chips in front of you.
Nuts, The
The best possible hand.
Odds
1. The proportion by which one bet differs from that of another.2. The ratio between the probability for and against something happening.
On the Button
Being the last player to act in a betting round. Dealer's Position.
Outs
The number of cards left in the deck that will improve your hand.
Overpair
A pocket pair higher than any of the cards on the board.
Pair
A poker hand comprised of two cards of the same type and three others.
Passive
Adjective to describe a player who frequently calls and rarely bets.
Pocket Cards
The two cards dealt to you at the beginning of a Hold 'Em hand that no one else is entitled to see.
Position
In a turn-based game like Hold 'Em, your rank in the order of turns. This is typically categorized into early, middle, and late position.
Pot, The
The amount of money and sum of the bets being wagered on in a game.
Pot Odds
The odds you get when analyzing the current size of the pot vs. your next call.
Pre-Flop
The space of time after you've been dealt your pocket cards and before the flop is dealt.
Quarter
1. What you need to call your friend to pick you up after you lose all your money playing Hold'em before reading up on strategy.2. What your opponent will need to call his or her friend after playing you after you read up on strategy.
Raise
Putting in the first bet in a round.
Rake
Money taken by the house to compensate for expenses.
Rank of Suits
An uncommon ranking system to determine who wins in a game with no draws. The cards in your final five-card hand are evaluated. The winner is decided by the highest pocket card involved with that hand. The player with the better rank wins. In order the ranks are Spades, Hearts, Diamonds, Clubs. If the players still have the same hand, the highest pocket card is the winner, if it is still a tie then the highest ranked pocket card wins.
Ratholing
The illegal action of taking money off the table and putting it somewhere else.
Re-raise
Putting in another bet on top of a previous raise or raises.
Reading
Analysis of a player based on how they play, mannerisms, and tells.
Ring game
A normal game, as opposed to a tournament game or a non-money game with your uncles.
River
The fifth and last community card dealt face up in a Hold 'Em game.
Rock
A passive, tight player.
Royal Flush
The highest ranking hand. Having a straight 10 to Ace of all the same suit.
Run, Going on a
The act of playing with more money than is typical or reasonable for you to play.
Rush
A winning streak
Sandbagging
Holding back and calling despite the fact that you have a very good hand, usually to disguise strength, provoke bluffs, and to check-raise.
Semi-Bluff
Betting with a mediocre or drawing hand
Set
Having a pocket pair that matches one of the cards on the board.
Short Buying
Purchasing chips after your initial purchase. Usually the minimum for a short buy-in is less than the initial buy-in.
Short-Handed
An adjective used to describe a game with few players.
Showdown
The final phase after all betting has ended and players reveal their cards.
Side Pot
Bets made into a new pot after a player has gone all-in.
Signaling
A system used by colluding players to let each other know what they hold.
Slow Playing
Playing deceptively with a strong hand by checking and calling with the intention of raising once the pot is larger.
Small Blind
The smaller or the two blinds posted prior to the dealing of cards. This is usually by the player sitting directly to the left of the dealer.
Soft Seat
A seat or game which is favorable because of the lack of skill at the table.
Spades
One of the four playing card suits. Formerly representing nobility.
Splashing the Pot
An illegal move where chips are placed in a haphazard way. Such as being tossed directly into the pot before being counted.
Spread Limit
A betting structure where you can bet any amount within a certain range.
Stash
A poker player's "gamblin' money".
Steal Raise
A raise by someone in late position in an attempt to reduce the number of players and/or steal the pot.
Steamrolling
Re-raising to make a player(s) call two bets instead of one.
Straddle
Posting an extra blind when one sits to the left of the big blind.
Straight
A poker hand with five sequential cards. In Hold'Em, Aces can be high or low.
Straight Flush
A poker hand comprised of five sequential cards all of the same suit.
String Bets
Saying "I'll call your bet....and I'll re-raise!", instead of just "Raise" or "Re-raise". Generally not allowed because of ethics involving angle shooting.
String Calls
An illegal call like saying "I've got a pair of Jacks.", then after your opponents have revealed their hands or just simply reacted to that, saying "Oh, and I've also got a pair of sevens, too" or a similar situation.
Suit
A characteristic of a playing card. The card being either of Clubs, Diamonds, Hearts, or Spades.
Suited
Usually used in reference to your pocket cards when they are of the same suit.
Table, The
1. The surface on which poker is played.2. A term used in reference to the players at a table. "A tight table."
Table Stakes
The rule that you can only play a hand with the money you have at the table.
Tell
An action that gives clues about the cards someone is holding.
Three-of-a-Kind
A poker hand consisting of three cards of the same type.
Tight
Adjective to describe a player who selects hands very carefully and folds easily.
Tilt, On
Behavior as a result of losing, usually negative.
Top Pair
Having a pair with the highest card on the board and one in the pocket.
Top Two Pair
Having both your pocket cards match the highest two cards on the board.
Turn
The fourth community card dealt face up in a Hold 'Em game.
Under the Gun
Being the first person to act, being in the earliest position.
Underpair
A pocket pair of lower value than the lowest card on the board.

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Links - Texas Hold 'Em poker: how to play and win at Texas Hold 'Em poker. Texas Hold 'Em poker

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Recommended.Best-online-poker.infoThis site provides reviews of online poker rooms as well as a list of funding companies for online gambling transactions.Play-the-game-of-poker.comA nice poker site with some good strategy articles, updated regularly.Poker-Patrol.comA nice poker room review site with a some good info on the history of poker as well.Poker.NetPoker.Net was created to be the player’s one stop Poker Shop. We are committed to provide the online Poker player with anticipated, timely and relevant content, tools and service.Poker-Strategy.orgPoker-Strategy.org is a poker strategy information source for poker players. Learn how to play, and then where to play to maximize your winnings.The Poker SourceOnline poker site reviews, guides, rankings and resources. Find the best online poker sites, bonuses and tournaments. 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Position - Texas Hold 'Em poker: how to play and win at Texas Hold 'Em poker. Texas Hold 'Em poker

Your position at the table is simply your position in relation to the dealer. The dealer is at the most advantageous position, as he/she gets to see how all the players at the table react before making their own decision.

The person to the left of the dealer is not only the small blind, but must act first after the flop.

The person to the left of the small blind is the big blind. This person is already obligated to the game and is in another early position.

The person to the left of the big blind acts first before board cards are dealt. This is often referred to as "being under the gun". The clockwise motion of play allows those who act later (in late position) to be at an advantage. As a result, those in late position can play weaker hands or "gambling hands" with less fear of financial obligation or loss.

The blind positions and the player under the gun (early positions) must be more selective with their hands, as they don't have the privilege of watching other players betting/raising before they must decide if they want to stay in themselves.

For example, lets say you're under the gun (first to act). You have Jack-Ten, unsuited. The player to bet after you raises, and everyone but you folds.. Now you're in a jam. Chances are good that this player has a better hand than you, with at least an ace or a pocket pair. Unfortunately, you've already bet, because you had no idea or no way to tell what other players at the table had in the pocket.

In addition, you will always, throughout the game, be acting before this player. This positional advantage will continue throughout this hand.

On the other hand, being in the dealers position not only gives you the benefits of observing how the other players are betting, but it also gives you the ability to adjust the size of the pot. After all other players have bet, a raise by the player in the dealers position could potentially double the size of the pot (assuming no one folds). Since the players have already committed to one bet, its easier to commit to a second (or a third or fourth!).

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Strategy - Texas Hold 'Em poker: how to play and win at Texas Hold 'Em poker. Texas Hold 'Em poker

Before you start betting like a madman when you get two eights in the pocket, you need to carefully consider all factors involved in solid pre-flop strategy.

The factors to consider are the number of players, how aggressive/passive the players at the table are, your bankroll, your position, and how much risk you are willing to entail.

Number of players: With 10 people in the game, it's much more likely that someone else has a strong hand in the pocket than in a short-handed game. Also, you'll need to be more cautious in larger games, as the chances of someone's pre-flop hand fitting the flop will be much better. More competition means stiffer competition.

How aggressive the players are: Assuming you've been playing with a few people for several hands, and you noticed some jackass is raising every hand pre-flop, you'll want to play tighter. Let the guy win the blinds (big deal) and nail him to the wall when you have a solid hand in the pocket pre-flop.

Your bankroll: If you have $2 left, you'll want to play extremely carefully and select one hand to bet on, hoping to get as many players involved as possible for a larger pot. You'll want to be all-in before the flop is dealt. On the flip-side, if you have $1000 at a $1/$2 table, you can take the high-risk, high-payout bets.

Your position: People in late position have the ability to influence the size of the pot much more than those in early position. This is especially true pre-flop. (see our page on position for more info)

Your tolerence for risk: Depending on your playing style, you may want to play more or less aggressively pre-flop. Players who shoot for larger pots, but don't mind a greater chance for losing a few hands will want to raise pre-flop, especially if they are in late position. Some players prefer to be as selective as possible pre-flop, grinding out a winning hand here or there. It really depends on your own style of play, and how you perceive the players around you.

Without taking much of this into consideration, you want hands that have high card value, or the ability to be the best hand (the nuts). You'll want to seriously consider playing high value cards (queens, kings and aces), suited (drawing for a flush) and connected (drawing for a straight) cards, and obviously, always play high pocket pairs (queens or better).

Who To Play


Here's some advice that won't improve your game as much as it'll have a positive impact on your flaccid wallet...

Find a mid-sized game. This size of game allows you more of a choice of who to sit by. Watch everyone play. Get a feel for who's playing tight, who's aggressive, and who sucks. Note who check-raised, slow played, bluffed or semi-bluffed in your head (or on paper next to your mouse, you cheater).

You should first and foremost decide whether these guys are better than you. Avoid games with lots of early pre and post flop raises, and avoid games where it looks like one or two players are about to finish cleaning up some chumps. Very aggressive players can be a source of weal or woe. I suggest steering clear of those if you consider yourself beginner or intermediate.

In one sentence, sit to the right of a tight player - to the left of a loose player.

Here's why:
1. With the loose guy on your right, you're always evaluating the hand AFTER s/he makes their call.
2. You can steal blinds easier from the tighties on your left.
3. With very loose or wild players on your right, you can re-raise their bets to try to wipe out mediocre and drawing hands.
4. Fish-hole tight players on your left will more likely call a bet than re-raise even though they might have a decent hand. You can more easily scare them into thinking you've got the nuts and buy more free cards despite the fact that they've got a positional advantage on you.
5. The bankrolls of tight players tend to go down in small amounts incrementally, and periodically go up in mid and large amounts. Loose players have bigger swings. Money tends to move clockwise around the table because its easier to read players to the right. When that loose player is about to take a negative swing, you want to be at a positional advantage over him or her.


Even more, you want what I call Crazy Ass Players on your right, and what I call Short-Bus Players on your left. Crazies eliminate players with okay and drawing hands. 20-year-old high-school students are more readable, and you profit from being able to act directly after them.


How To Bet


A bet is a declaration that either a)"I have the best hand and I'll wager money on it" or b)"You have a poor hand, and you will fold if you are forced to wager on it".

Typically, players are supposed to bet when they have a good hand. Players who don't have good hands are supposed to fold. Of course, if it was this simple, there would be no need for this page. You might as well wager on Tic-Tac-Toe. Most players play contrary to this idea, attempting to be a cunning or deceptive player. Don't fall into this trap when you are just learning to play.

Your betting strategy should be built upon this simple idea, but you must know when to stray and bet in situations when you otherwise wouldn't. Here are some situations you should start looking at to improve your game:

Example one: Blind-stealing
When you are in the dealer's position, and only you and the blinds are remaining in the game, a raise is often called "blind-stealing". This is because the blinds may fold, whereas if you didn't raise but simply called, the blinds would simply check. Its a good way to make a buck or two, but will never make you rich. Its more of a way to end the game fast and have a new hand dealt with more players (and more money).

Example two: The steal-raise
If you are last to act and all players have checked to you, betting to simply limit the number of players or take the pot is called a steal-raise. Don't use this exclusively, as better players will be onto you quickly and begin check-raising against your (most likely) poor hand. It is good to use a steal raise when you have an excellent drawing hand such as a nut flush draw. Players will tend to "check to the raiser". If you draw to your hand, you now have a larger pot to win. If you don't, you can always check, and hope the fifth card makes your hand.

Example three: The check-raise
Check raising is checking to your opponent, with the intention of luring them to bet, so that you can raise them back. Your intention is to lure them into a false sense of security so that you can raise them and increase the pot (remember, after one bet is committed, its more likely they'll commit to two).

Example four: The opener
This reckless move is often done by people who bluff. It is when the person first to act raises, making all other players call two bets at once. Its inteniton is to limit the number of players. Basically, this move amounts to a backwards steal-raise. The effect will almost certainly cause many players to fold, but the ones remaining will either be equally aggressive or truly have a great hand. This is also known as betting for information. This tactic is best used with few players in on the hand.

Example five: Squeezing
Squeezing is a tactic only used in a short-handed game. It's betting when you have a good hand currently, and you suspect another player or players may be on a draw. For example, you have top pair with the best kicker. Chances are they won't make their draw (be it a straight or a flush draw, etc). Your goal is to limit their pot odds. (read more about pot odds)

Bluffing


"You can fool some of the people all the time, and all of the people some of the time, but you cannot fool all of the people all the time." - Abraham Lincoln

One element of poker is deception. Bluffing is the quintessential trick in poker. Of course, the reasoning for a bluff is to deceive the other players into thinking you have a better hand when you actually do not. For a bluff to work, you need the other players to think you actually have that better hand. Many beginning poker players love this idea of bluffing and often misuse it. The value of the bluff increases under certain general circumstances that often have a lot to do with information you assume about the other players. This vagueness makes it difficult to give definitive reasons or places to bluff. Some less generalized times to bluff and some advice are given below. The bottom of the page gives some more ideas and perspectives on deception in poker.

Some typical reasons to bluff...
A. When there aren't many other players in a pot.
Simply put, it's easier to trick a couple people than a crowd. With fewer hands out there, chances are better that no one has made a reasonable hand. This is fairly common though, so many players won't believe you. Some will stay in the hand just to "keep you honest", so sometimes this needs to be a persistent bluff over a period of two or three betting rounds. That can be costly if they don't fall for it. You need to know the players before you use this type of bluff.

B. When you're up against fairly tight players.
Those that tend to fold easily are the biggest targets of a bluff. Bets will be put out just as a form of information gathering on this player's hand. If you bluff early (pre-flop, flop) against a very tight player and they don't buckle, you should think twice about trying it again on a future round. They have something. Your job is to determine whether they have a made or drawing hand. Once again, you need to know the players.

C. On the river.
Especially if apparent drawing hands missed. That's when players react to rule #1 "the moment you know you can't win, throw in your cards". It is often a good idea to bluff with a weak hand, like ace-high or lowest pair with these kinds of bluffs, because some players will stay in just because of pot odds. If you do that, it is actually semi-bluffing (see the bottom of the page).

D. You're in late position and everyone else checked.
This one you'll have to gauge for yourself. It will most likely force some players out, but not all. This is a pretty common bluff once again, and many players will stay in just because of bet odds, and/or to once again "keep you honest". This is another example of a bluff that needs to be more persistent over a couple betting rounds.

E. You bet pre-flop and missed.
That's because they don't know you missed! This can be dangerous, and you really have to evaluate to board before you get into this one. Sometimes it's good to bluff when AK misses, sometimes when 99 misses. You have to really feel this one out.

F. You have given other players "the fear".
It's about how other players perceive you. If you just won a hand through good play, the players who say "nice hand" are the ones who now respect you. They will more likely fold to your bluff if you play it right. The trick is to play the hand exactly the same way you played the other winning hand. Give it the "here we go again" act.

G. When the flop isn't so great.
Some players will fold automatically if all they have is an overcard. With a rainbow flop of 2, 6, 9, not many players will have much. This is another example of a bluff that can go horribly awry. I wouldn't be too persistent in this case, unless only more low cards pop up. Once again, know your players.

H. Pre-flop on the button, and everyone else has folded.
This is usually best used with tight players to your left. Its good because it can change from a bluff to a deceptively good hand with luck and the right flop.

I. When there is a pair on the board.
This is especially useful when the pair is 88 or lower. Chances are that these cards might have been folded or are still in the deck. This is one situation where you want to evaluate the hand very carefully if they do call though. This is a great situation to read the tells of the players who are NOT involved in the game. It's much easier to give away the fact that you HAD a card than if you HAVE it.

Keep in mind that these are pretty common reasons to bluff. Many players know these reasons. Most of the time it just won't work. The main thing is always to know your players and to not do it so often that it never works.

Other bluffing topics...

Semi-Bluffing


Semi-bluffing is a sort of bluff where you have a poor hand or a drawing hand that can possibly improve. Against players with nothing it functions a lot like a bluff. Against players with something it functions as a form of aggression. It is a powerful tool, as it can lead to a deceptively powerful hand if the cards come to you. It can also be a source of great loss if overused or misused.

Semi-bluffing in Texas Holdem is used best in bluffing situations. Its usefulness comes from the fact that players who recognize a bluff won't necessarily recognize when you make your draw. It is more useful (and preferable) against a lot of players, as opposed to outright bluffing, since the odds tend to be better. Other than that, you'll want to use semi-bluffing in late position, usually on the flop or turn, against mediocre flops, and against poor players.

Let's look at two examples of semi-bluffing from a perspective of odds and from a perspective of bluffing:

1. You have a Jack of Hearts, and a Ten of Hearts. The pre-flop betting round concludes with six players investing two bets each. The flop is Ace of Hearts, Queen of Spades, Seven of Hearts.

You are in a middle position, and decide to semi-bluff. Why? You've got draws, that's why! Any Heart or King will give you a hand. Whenever you have multiple draws like that, start thinking of what would be ideal. If a Heart pops up you have to worry about a higher flush draw, so you probably want the King of Hearts, as he is the most likely to be in someone's hand. A Queen of Hearts would be dangerous for you, since you'd be looking at a royal flush draw vs. a potentially made full house. Ideally you want a non-Heart King and the straight. That would be the nuts.

For simplicity's sake though, let's say that in your evaluation, either a flush or straight will give you a winning hand. You have twelve outs (don't count the King of Hearts twice). That's a little better than a 25% chance of hitting a winning card on the turn. Even re-raising or check-raising would be a good idea in this position based purely on odds. Even if you miss on the turn, it would be in your interests (based on players reactions) to continue to bet it right out.

2. You have a pair of sixes in the pocket. Pre-flop eliminates all but you and another player who was in early position before you. You get a rainbow flop of Four, Five, Ten.
Semi-bluff! In this case you have to think of it more as a bluff. If this only player played a hand in early position, they probably have some overcards in this case. You want the pot right then and there. Most players will bluff back at you in this case with just an Ace in the pocket. Stick to your resolve. Bluff.

Your chances of getting that six are pretty slim, and not worth the odds. You only have to worry about your opponent having overpairs and matching the Ten. So you really have to evaluate the player, as opposed to the math in this case. I'd always try to be on the aggressive. You need information about his hand. Betting is a real good way to get information. Also, a casual semi-bluffing check-raise can be all you need to scare another player if you think they'll bluff at the pot.

Hope that give a little insight into semi-bluffing. I suggest using it at a money-table to get a feel for it. It is more of a learned experience. Remember with any bluff, you need to know your players, and not to use any bluffing tactic habitually.

Reasons NOT To Bluff


Bluffing should probably not be an automatic reaction. Many times it takes a feel for a table to make me want to bluff. When doing it keep in mind that everyone else is also looking for an opportunity to bluff. Maybe you spot them bluffing in a common situation or they spot you. It only works when you get away with it, so you must use it sparingly.
Here are some times when you outright should not bluff.

A. When players expect you to.
Don't be the fish. A huge leak can be bluffing in telltale situations against players who know them. That's a common money-maker for the other players. Always consider this rule before attempting a bluff.

B. When you've been caught bluffing recently.
You've been labeled as a poor bluffer already. Ride it out. Let them forget that hand. Start rebuilding a reputation as a straight player so you can eventually try a bluff again later (and hopefully not screw it up again).

C. Against a dangerous flop.
If the flop has an Ace, chances are that someone has a pair of aces. Aces tend to make it beyond pre-flop. Also, players tend to continue to play their Aces. Don't bluff against Aces. You also wouldn't want to bluff against a flop like K,Q,9. Chances are someone has something they'll stick with.

D. Against lots of players.
Chances are that someone has something that they'll stick with. By bluffing in this situation, you just become an agent of that player. From an odds perspective, this is never worth it.

E. Against bad players.
As much as they love to bluff, they love to catch someone in a bluff. They're much more likely to "keep you honest" because they don't realize what a money-loser that is. It's much more profitable to play straight up in these games. Bluffing is only effective from a "fear" perspective in this case.

F. You just lost a big hand or have lost a series of hands.
Not only might you be on tilt, but other players will expect you to be on tilt, and will more readily call you.

G. You limped in, or are in a blind position.
You really have to evaluate the flop, but generally other players will think you have a poor hand and expect you to bluff.


Bluffing Odds:
Using Odds During a Bluff

It's always good to look at poker from a mathematical perspective, and that even applies to bluffing. You can determine finite amounts and percentages that can tell you if it is a financially feasibly good time to bluff. This is particularly useful when there are only one or two players and the pot is rather large.

It's good to do these calculations with potential straights or flushes that appeared on the river, that you were going for but you didn't make. It's nice with a flop that starts with Heart, Heart, Spade, and ends with Spade, Spade. You had two Hearts. Or a flop like Five, Seven, Eight, and ends with Ten, Jack. You had a Six. It's also good because they might have been on the same draw, which leads them to believe (also from on odds perspective) that you were not on that draw.

Let's say that one of the above cases occurred in a $5/$10 game and on the river there is $140 in the pot. Your only opponent checks to you. If you check, you know you've lost. So you bluff. The reasoning is that if you invest another $10, you're getting 14 to 1 odds. As a percent that's around 7%. If they fold more than 7% of the time, you make money in the long poker game of life. If not, it's a losing venture.

You still have to evaluate the player, but from a purely mathematical standpoint, you get the picture. You can also evaluate it by reasoning that they missed their draw more than 7% of the time and will fold.

If two players were involved in the pot, it cuts the odds in half. With three, it becomes 1/3rd of 7%, etc. You can see why you want to bluff against fewer players.
This can be unreliable though, as some players will stay in purely based on pot odds. So when bluffing you cannot ever use just odds. Get a feel for your opponents, and act accordingly.

When Are They Bluffing?


This isn't about reading tells. This is about the situations where bluffing is plausible, and when other players will do it. You can generally look at the reasons YOU should bluff and apply them to other players. Of course, you also have to know the player, and evaluate it from there, but here are some ideas...

A. They are keeping the initiative despite a poor flop.
If they bet pre-flop from a poor position, and the flop is something like 4, 5, 5, they are probably just trying to keep momentum going and bluff their way out of this hand. They probably have genuinely zero drawing chances with overcards or maybe an overpair, but a re-raise could have them rethink that strategy. It might also give you a betting round or two to try and make YOUR hand.

B. Pot Odds are in their favor.
If everyone folds on the turn with a big pot, like when an obvious draw was missed, expect a bluff. It's almost certain that anyone will bluff against a big pot. With the pot odds the way they are, you probably want to stay in those hands also.

C. It's you and them.
The most common time to bluff is when you can pull it off. It's very easy to trick just one person. Use your skills at evaluating the previous rounds and the board to determine what they might have.

D. The flop doesn't have any draws.
Sometimes someone will bet in this case to eliminate the ability to acquire a draw, sometimes because they have a good hand. You really have to know the player.

E. They bet on the Flop, checked on the turn.
If there was a draw, and it didn't hit, they are probably just buying a free card. Bet back against them and take the initiative.

F. Bet on the flop, bet on the turn, checked on the river.
Same as before, but they bought another turn. Might as well bet back at them.

G. They bet and tell you to "save your money".
If they really wanted you to save your money, they wouldn't have bet. Sometimes players say that just to create the opposite image, so look out. Few are that crafty though, so tell Uncle Jessup that he's bluffing and re-raise.



~ ________________________________________________ ~

An Explanation of Hold 'Em Odds - An Explanation of Hold 'Em Odds

Probability is a huge factor in texas hold 'em. Players use odds to determine their actions. The chances of finishing a flush or a straight, the probablity of getting an overcard, the percentage of times you're going to flop a set to match your pocket pair are all important factors in poker. Knowledge of these statistics is key to winning. In online games especially with very few (if any) tells, statistical knowledge becomes the main factor when choosing whether to bet, call, or fold.

Here are some terms that you'll hear on this site and whenever you're talking about poker odds...
Outs The number of cards left in the deck that will improve your hand.
"I had four hearts on the turn, so I had only 9 outs left to finish that flush."
Pot Odds The odds you get when analyzing the current size of the pot vs. your next call.
"There's $200 already in the pot, and only another $10 bet coming at me, so my pot odds are good if I hit that flush."
Bet Odds The odds you get as a result of evaluating the number of callers to a raise. "With a 1 in 5 chance of hitting it, and knowing all six of these guys are gonna call my bet, my bet odds are good too."
Implied Odds The odds you are getting after the assumed result of betting for the remainder of the hand. "Since I think these guys are going to call on the turn and river, my implied odds are excellent."


In Texas Hold 'Em, you commonly use outs and pot odds the most. This is also the starting point for those who want to learn about poker odds. To those out there who "ain't good at countin' much", you better get good because that is how it's done. At this point it's only simple division The numerator will be the number of outs you have. The denominator is the number of cards left that we haven't seen. The result will be the percentage chance of making one of those outs. Therefore, the most math you'll be doing will be dividing small numbers by 50 (pre-flop), 47 (after the flop), or 46 (after the turn). Click here for a series of examples on this.

Before we move on, I must clarify one thing. A lot of you might wonder why we never factor the opponents' cards or the burn cards when figuring out how many cards are left. The reason is that we only consider "unseen cards". If you saw what the burn cards were, or an opponent showed you his hand, you would know that those cards are not going to be drawn and could use that. We typically do not know what they have, so we don't even think about it when talking about odds. For instance, take a standard deck of 52 cards, remove 2 Aces and burn 25 of them. If you drew the next card, what are the chances of it being an Ace? It would be 2/50 (2 Aces left out of 50 unseen cards). It would NOT be 2/25 just because you burned half the deck. Okay, do the same thing again, but this time you get to look at the burn cards. Let's say that of all the cards you burned, none were an ace. Now your odds are 2/25 because there are still 2 Aces and now only 25 "unseen cards".

By that same reasoning, let's play a game of draw poker where you get 5 cards as usual, but your opponent gets 40. Say you got Ace, King, Queen, Jack all of Spades!, and a Four of Clubs. You get to ditch the Four and draw one from the remaining pile of 7 cards. What are your chances of getting that Ten of Spades? Assuming you don't get to see your opponents hand, your chances of drawing that card would be 1 in 47 (1 Ten of Spades in the deck, 47 "unseen cards"). It would NOT be 1 in 7. Let's say your opponent goes to the bathroom, and you cheat and look at his hand while he's on the crapper. If he doesn't have that Ten of Spades, that would be 1 in 7. If he did, well...it'd be 0 in 7.

Pot odds are as easy as computing outs. You compare your outs or your chance of winning to the size of the pot. If your chance of winning is significantly better than the ratio of the pot size to a bet, then you have good pot odds. If it's lower, then you have bad pot odds. For example, say you are in a $5/$10 holdem game with Jack-Ten facing one opponent on the turn. You have an outside straight draw with a board of 2-5-9-Q, and only the river card left to make it. Any 8 or any King will finish this straight for you, so you have 8 outs (four 8's and 4 K's left in the deck) and 46 unseen cards left. 8/46 is almost the same as a 1 in 6 chance of making it. Your sole opponent bets $10. You if you take a $10 bet you could win $200. $200/$10 is 20, so you stand to make 20x more if you call. 1/6 higher than 1/20, so pot odds say that calling wouldn't be a bad idea.

Another clarification...a lot of players want to somehow factor in money they wagered on previous rounds. With the last example, you probably had already invested a significant portion of that $200 pot. Let's say $50. Does that mean you should play or fold because of that money you already have in there? $50/$200? That's a big no. That's not your money anymore! It's in a pool of money to be given to the winner. You have no "stake" in that pot. The only stake you might have is totally mental and has no bearing on hard statistics.

The next step is to use bet odds and implied odds. That's tougher, because it involves predicting reactions of other players. With bet odds, you try to factor in how many people are going to call a raise. With implied odds, you're thinking about reactions for the rest of the game. One last example on implied odds...

Say it's another $5/$10 holdem game and you have a four flush on the flop. Your neighbor bets, and everyone else folds. The pot is $50 at this point. First you figure out your chance of hitting your flush on the turn, and it comes out to about 19.1% (about 1 in 5). You have to call this $5 bet vs a $50 pot, so that's a 10x payout. 1/5 is higher than 1/10, so bet odds are okay, but you must consider that this guy's going to bet into you on the turn and river also. That's the $5 plus two more $10 bets. So now your facing $25 more till the end of the hand. So you have to consider your chances of hitting that flush on the turn or river, which makes it about 35% (better than 1 in 3 now), but you have to invest $25 for a finishing pot of $100. $100/$25 is 1 in 4. That's pretty close. But there's more!... if you don't make it on the turn, it'll change your outs and odds! You'll have a 19.6% chance of hitting the flush (little worse than 1 in 5), but a $20 investment for a finishing pot of $100! $100/$20 is 1 in 5. So the chances would take a nasty turn if you didn't hit it! What's makes it more complicated is that if you did hit it on the turn, you could raise him back, and get an extra $20 or maybe even $40 in the pot.

I'll let it go at that, as once you've mastered simple outs and pot odds, bet and implied odds are just a longer extension of these equations. If you sit and think about these things while you play, it'll come to you eventually without any tutoring. Good luck!

The Easy Example: A pocket pair
You start with a pair of Jacks in the pocket. Not too shabby. The flop however, doesn't contain another Jack.

Lesson 1: What's my chance of getting a Jack on the turn?
You need to just figure out the number of outs and divide it by the number of cards in the deck. There's 2 more Jacks. There's 47 more cards since you've seen five already. The answer is 2/47, or .0426, close to 4.3%.

Lesson 2: No luck on the turn, how 'bout the river?
Still 2 Jacks left, but one less card in the deck bringing the grand total to 46. What's 2/46? That's .0434, which is also close to 4.3% Your chances didn't change much.

Lesson 3: Screw getting just one Jack! I want them both! What are my chances?!
Since we're trying to figure out the chances of getting one on the turn AND the river, and not getting one on EITHER the turn or river, we don't have to reverse our thinking. Just multiply the probability of each event happening. Chances of getting that first Jack on the turn was .0426, remember? The chance of getting a second Jack on the river would be 1/46, because there'll only be one Jack left in the deck. That's about .0217, or 2.2%. To get the answer, multiply 'em. .0426 X .0217 is about .0009! That's around one-tenth of a percent. I wouldn't bank on that one.

Lesson 4: Hey, what were my chances of getting a pair of Jacks anyway?
To figure that out, think of it as getting dealt one card, then another. What are your chances of the second card matching the first one? There will be 3 cards left like the one you have. There's 51 cards left in the deck. 3/51 is .059 or 5.9%. What the chance that it'll be Jacks? Well, there's 13 different cards. So, .059/13 is about .0045, a little less than half a percent.

Lesson 5: What were my chances of getting a Jack on the flop?
Now you do have to "think in reverse" as in the previous example. Figure out the chances of NOT getting a Jack on each successive card flip. First card you have a 48/50 chance (48 non-Jack cards left, 50 cards left in the deck), second card is 47/49, third card is 46/48. Those come out to .96, .959, and .958. Multiply them and get .882, or an 88.2% chance of NOT getting any Jacks on the flop. Invert it to figure out what your chances really are and you get .118 or 11.8%. This will be your chance to get one or two Jacks.

Example #2 "The straight draw"
You start with a Jack of Spades and a Ten of Spades. You get a rainbow flop with a Queen of Spades, a Three of Diamonds, and a Nine of Clubs. You've got a straight draw.

Lesson 1: What are my chances of hitting it on the next card?
Same as before, but with different outs. A King or an Eight will complete your hand. There are presumably four of each left in the deck. You've got 8 outs. The chance of getting one of them on the turn is 8 over 47, because there's 47 cards left in the deck. That comes out to about .170, or around 17%.

Lesson 2: I didn't get it on the turn! What are my chances now!?
There's still 8 cards left in the deck that'll help you, but 46 cards left in the deck. That's 8 over 46. It changes to .174. It's improved to a whopping 17.4%!

Lesson 3: I should of thought about my total chances first, I'm such an idiot. What are my chances of getting that card on the turn OR the river?
Once again we'll have to calculate the chances of a King or Eight NOT appearing, so we can do it like the last problem (in this case, {39/47} X {38/46}). Or, since we've already figured out our chances in the previous two lessons, we can just invert the probabilities and multiply 'em. You had a .170 chance on the turn, and a .174 on the river. By inverting, I mean subtracting them from one. Now we've got .830 and .826! Multiply and get .686! That's our chance of NOT hitting our card at all. So invert it again and get .314, or 31.4%.


Example #3 "Top two pair"
You get dealt a King of Diamonds and a Nine of Hearts. The flop is lookin' pretty good for you with a King of Spades, a Nine of Clubs, and a Four of Clubs. Top two pair!

Lesson 1: What are my chances of getting a full house on the turn?
To get a full house, you need another King or Nine to pop up. There are presumably two of each left in the deck. So you've got 4 outs. After the flop there's always 47 cards unaccounted for. 4/47 is around .085 or an 8.5% chance of you getting that boat.

Lesson 2: What are my chances of getting a full house on the river?
If it didn't happen on the turn, your chances usually don't change all too much, but let's check. You've still got 4 outs and now 46 unseen cards left. 4/46 is about .087 or around an 8.7% chance of hitting it on the river. A .2% difference. Sorry.

Lesson 3: How about the chances of getting the boat on the turn OR the river?
Like the previous examples, to figure your chance of something happening on multiple events, you need to calculate the chance of it NOT happening first. On the turn it won't happen 43/47 times. On the river it won't happen 42/46 times. 43/47 is .915, and 42/46 is .913. Multiply them and get .835, or 83.5% chance of it not happening. Invert that and you get a 16.5% of getting at least a full house by the showdown.

Lesson 4: What do you mean by "at least"?
Since we figured the chances to NOT get dealt a full house, the chances are built in if the turn and river are two Kings, two Nines, or a King and a Nine. If you are dealt two cards both of either King or Nine, it'll be four-of-a-kind and not a King and Nine 33% of the time. Think of it as being dealt one card then the other. What are the chances of the first card matching the second? Whether it's a King or Nine, there will be only one unaccounted for, but two of the other. That's 1/3, or 33%.

Lesson 5: Then what are my chances of getting four-of-a-kind?
This is a little more abstract. I hope I warmed you up for this with the previous lesson.
It doesn't matter which card we're banking on. We need to first get a full house on the turn. According to lesson #1, the chance of that happening is .085. The chance of getting the same card we got on the turn is 1/46. There's only one out, and the usual 46 unseen cards. 1/46 is around .022, or 2.2%. Multiply the two probabilities (.022 X .085) and get .002 or one-fifth of a percent. It will be Kings half of the time and Nines the other half

A lot of info to soak up, right? Yeah, I know. If you really want to be a master of odds, you need to see all this in action, over and over. Like anything else, practice makes perfect. We recommend practicing with fun money at PacificPoker.com, since its a new poker room (with newer players) and registration takes about 30 seconds.


Beating The Rake


To be realistic, the house already has an edge on you. The rake is built in so that the house takes money from you in small, unnoticed amounts. There are a few guidelines you can go by to minimize this...

Some poker rooms will only rake the pot once it has reached a certain amount, so you want to play opposite the style of the table in these cases...

You can exploit tight players through tactics such as blind stealing and through buying free cards. Blind stealing is simply betting when only blinds are left in the game pre-flop. You can raise from the small blind position or from the position just before the small blind (usually the dealer's position) to try and steal the cost of the two blinds. Buying a free card is a trick best used in last position. If no one else has raised post-flop, then you bet. This will most likely cut down on the number of players (and potential money in the pot), but everyone who stays will tend to check to you. Then on the turn, after everyone has checked you don't necessarily have to bet again. That is why it's called a free card. It's best used with drawing hands, too.

When playing against aggressive players, you tighten up. Be mindful of your position. Play only premium starting hands and fold after the flop if you didn't come up with much. The reason for this is the same reason for playing tight at all. You will get raked when you win, but if you win just one extra big hand for playing like this, you'll have covered the cost of the rake. Savor that one when your single high pair beats the same pair because your kickers are always better.

If the rake is a set percentage (usually 4% to 10%), the tactics for an aggressive player won't be as successful. Every failed attempt at blind-stealing is going to be raked, and all bluffing is now 4%-10% less worth it. You have to be a better player to overcome that percentage, and once you get to that point, you shouldn't be too preoccupied with the rake. If you are a beginner, play tighter than usual.

PartyPoker is a nice example of a cardroom with a low rake structure, with the max rake typically 5%, but sometimes as low as 3%.

In some casinos, if the games become short handed, you can actually ask to have the rake reduced or eliminated. It's called a rake break. I don't believe the dealers are allowed to suggest it though, so ask about it.


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An Introduction To Texas Holdem Poker

So you're new to Texas Hold'Em poker? Not a problem. Texas Hold 'Em poker is by far the best game for a beginner to learn. Instead of other poker games like Omaha High or 7 card stud which entail a great many more possibilities for calculating odds and perhaps even trying to count cards, Hold'Em can be learned in a few minutes by anyone, and you can be playing fairly well with a few hours practice. In order to learn the game, however, you must play and you must play fairly often.

One poker room, PacificPoker, offers a wide variety of play money tables for beginners to practice their skills until they're ready to move up to the fun at real money tables. We recommend this card room to new players, as this site is the largest poker room (and full of other new players!)

A Texas Hold em poker game goes as follows:

1. The betting structure can vary, but most games start with two players placing out a predetermined amount of money so there is an initial amount to play for. This is called posting the blinds. These players are the two to the left of the dealer.


2. The dealer shuffles up a complete deck of 52 playing cards.


3. Each player is dealt two cards face down. These are called your hole or pocket cards.

4. Then there is a round of betting starting with the guy to the left of the two who posted the blinds. This round is usually referred to by the term pre-flop.


5. The amount betted depends on what kind of game it is. (Click here for more information about betting structures)


6. Much like most games of poker, players can check, raise, or fold.


7. After the betting round ends, the dealer discards the top card of the deck. This is called a burn card. This is done to prevent cheating.


8. The dealer then flips the next three cards face up on the table. These cards are called the flop. These are communal cards that anyone can use in combination with their two pocket cards to form a poker hand.


9. There is another round of betting starting with the player to the left of the dealer.


10. After the betting concludes, the dealer burns another card and flips one more onto the table. This is called the turn card. Players can use this sixth card now to form a five card poker hand.


11. The player to the left of the dealer begins another round of betting. In many types of games, this is where the bet size doubles.


12. Finally, the dealer burns a card and places a final card face up on the table. This is called the river. Players can now use any of the five cards on the table or the two cards in their pocket to form a five card poker hand.


13. There is one final round of betting starting with the player to the left of the dealer.


14. After that, all of the players remaining in the game begin to reveal their hands. This begins with the player to the left of the last player to call. It's called the showdown.


15. The player who shows the best hand wins! There are cases where players with equal hands share the winnings. Click here for more info on who wins and about split pots.

It's difficult to learn to play Texas Hold 'Em in the traditional setting of a casino's poker room without losing to experienced gamblers. Thankfully, you can practice all you want for free with online poker rooms.

The only way to learn the game is to play. Check out PacificPoker to get a feel for the action. Play all you want for free, and start playing for real money as soon as you feel ready. They have both low limits for newer players as well as high stakes tables. Enjoy the games!


Here's a few more areas to check out:
Betting Structures
Hand Rankings
Kickers
Split Pots (Straights, Flushes, and Straight Flushes)
Split Pots with Full House and Two Pair


Betting Structures


A term that typically refers to the money/betting aspect of a game is the game's limit. High-limit games are ones that involve a lot of money. Low-limit games are the opposite. As far as how the betting amounts go we have...

Structured Limit
This means that the amount that can be bet is set. These games will be called things like $1/$2 or $20/$40 games. In Hold 'Em, the amount that can be bet pre-flop or on the flop is the first number. In a $5/$10 game, you'll be betting $5 at a time. On the turn and river, the amount doubles. In that same $5/$10 game, players bet $10 at a time after the turn card is dealt.
There is a limit of four bets per player per betting round. That means a player can bet, get re-raised, re-raise again, and be re-raised.
You may encounter a structured game with three betting amounts, like $5/$10/$20. This is the same as before except on the river. On that round of betting, players can bet either of the two final amounts. In the case of a $5/$10/$20 game, that means a player can bet $10 or $20 on the river.

Spread Limit
This is where players can bet within a certain range of amounts. In a $1-$5 game, a player can bet between $1 and $5 during any betting round.
If there are four amounts, like $1-$5-$10-$10, that means you can bet between $1 and $5 pre-flop and on the flop. On the turn it goes up to the 3rd number (between $1 and $10), and on the river it goes up to the last number (between $1 and $10).
If there are three amounts, like $1-$5-$10, that means that you can bet from $1 to $5 during any betting round, but on the river you can bet between $1 and $10. This would be the same as a $1-$5-$5-$10 game.

Pot Limit
This is where a player can bet any amount between the cost of the big blind and the size of the pot on any betting round.

No Limit
This is where you can bet any amount between the cost of the big blind and the amount of money you have at the table on any betting round.


Who Wins?


Here's the list of what beats what. First off, let's go over which hands beat other hands, or the rank of hands. Hands above another hand on this list beat that hand. So a flush beats a straight, three-of-a-kind beats two pair, and a royal flush beats anything.
To preface the rank of hands, here's some really basic jargon in case ya don't know.

Suit - The suits are spades, hearts, diamonds, and clubs.
Suited - Having the same suit. Sometimes denoted as "s" in books.
Cards Speak - Your hand consists of the best possible five card combination, no matter how you call it.
Rank - Two, Three, Four…Jack, Queen, King, Ace are the ranks of cards.
Split Pot - When multiple players tie for a hand, the pot is split up evenly among the winners.
Connected - Sequentially ranked cards. Like a jack and queen, or a 4 and 5.
Kicker - The other card(s) left over after a hand is declared.



Rank of Hands

Royal Flush - An Ace-High straight of one suit.


Straight Flush - A straight of entirely one suit.


Four-of-a-Kind (Quads) - Four cards of the same rank.


Full House (Full Boat, Boat) - Three-of-a-kind and a pair. The example below would be called "Queens over Aces" or "Queens full of Aces".


Flush - Five cards of the same suit.


Straight(Run) - Five cards of sequential rank. Note that in hold 'em, Aces can be high or low.

Another example of a straight:


Three-of-a-Kind (Trips, Set) - Three cards of the same rank.


Two Pair - Two cards of the same rank and another two cards of the same rank. The example below would be called "Jacks and Twos".


One Pair - Two cards of the same rank.


High Card - When you don't have any of the above, your highest card determines your hand. The example below would be "King High" or "High card King".




What Happens when you both have the same hand? Well, in most cases there is a way to determine who wins after that. With tied hands, the higher the rank, the better. If you still have the same five card hand after evaluating the ranks, the pot is split evenly among all the winning players. The following are examples of split pots in Texas Hold'em.
Player One Player Two

These players split the pot with a board of:




Player One Player Two

These players split the pot with a board of:




Player One Player Two

The above example splits the pot no matter what the board, unless the board has 4 or 5 cards of the same suit.




Player One Player Two

These players split the pot with a board of:




Player One Player Two

These players split the pot with a board of:



If any of those examples didn't make sense, then you better click one of the links below for more info.

Kickers


Kickers are the leftover cards after a hand is declared. They determine who wins if players have the same hand. Since not all hands have "leftovers", kickers only apply to four-of-a-kind, three-of-a-kind, two pair, one pair, and high card situations. For situations with straights, flushes, straight flushes, full boats, and more on two pair click on one of the links at the bottom of this page.
In texas hold 'em you always use the best combination of five cards. Since a certain amount of cards are "used up" when you declare a hand, there can only be a certain number of kickers. Here's the short list…

Four-of-a-Kind has one kicker. In this example, the 5 of clubs is the kicker.


Three-of-a-Kind has two kickers. In the example below, the 9 of spades and the Jack of hearts are kickers.


Two Pair has one kicker. Below, the Ace of diamonds is that kicker.


One Pair has three kickers. In the example below, the 2 of hearts, 9 of clubs and the King of hearts are kickers.



Here are some examples to further explain kickers.
Player One Player Two

With a board of:

In the above example, Trip Aces, King kicker beats trip Aces, Queen kicker. (Player One wins)



Player One Player Two

With a board of:

In the above example, Two Pair, Jacks and Fives, King kicker beats Two Pair, Jacks and Fives, Queen Kicker. (Player One Wins)



Same goes for high card hands...
Player One Player Two

With a board of:

In the above example, Ace High (Hand of AKQT5) beats Ace High (Hand of AKQT4). (Player One wins)



Player One Player Two

With a board of:

In the above example, both players split the pot (both with hands of AKQT6).

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Resources and Links


LowLimitHoldem.com: An excellent resource on playing low-limit hold'em
Online-Poker-Rules.com: A graphical overview of poker rules and starting hands
TexasHoldem-Poker.com: Strategies and info
Learn-Texas-Holdem.com: Some great articles on strategy and other game info
Chance's Free Winning Texas Holdem Poker: Some uncommon strategy tips, a comprehensive list of starting hand rankings, and a section on "nut" hands (the best hand in any given round)
Poker-Strategy.org: A great new strategy site!
Pokersyte.com: Strategy page on Texas Hold'em and other games
Steve Badger's Play Winning Poker: Good general poker site
Abdul's Posev.com: Abdul's articles on poker are aimed at slightly more experienced players, but his musings are cited by numerous poker enthusiasts and writers as influential.
Gocee.com Poker Center: A great list of poker resources and information.
Party Poker Playing Guide: Some general strategy articles specific to Party Poker, and a free Party Poker hand re-player for reviewing your play.
Poker Pages #1 Poker Info portal worldwide: most-complete searchable database of Poker Rooms, daily-updated Events & Results, live-Audio Broadcasts, Articles, Seminars, Tips, Player Profiles & lively Forums.
Poker School Online: $100,000+ of Sponsorships, Weekly lessons, tests & interactive tournament play: Beginners/Intermediate levels. Closest to real world, safety of Play-Money: Bankroll, Rankings, Multi-Table Tournaments & Satellites. Brought to you by www.PokerPages.com
Pokerportal.co.uk: The most comprehensive list of poker links on the Web
Wsop.dk: Another huge poker links site
Conjelco's Poker Glossary: A glossary of poker terms from Lee Jones' Winning Low Limit Hold'em. Also check out the rec.gambling.poker FAQ
Poker Charts: A free, web-based, ad-supported service that allows you to track your poker play with charts and statistics. Recommended.
Pokeritis.com and Recpoker.com: Web-based front-ends for the rec.gambling.poker newsgroup


LowLimitHoldem.com: An excellent resource on playing low-limit hold'em
Online-Poker-Rules.com: A graphical overview of poker rules and starting hands
TexasHoldem-Poker.com: Strategies and info
Learn-Texas-Holdem.com: Some great articles on strategy and other game info
Chance's Free Winning Texas Holdem Poker: Some uncommon strategy tips, a comprehensive list of starting hand rankings, and a section on "nut" hands (the best hand in any given round)
Poker-Strategy.org: A great new strategy site!
Pokersyte.com: Strategy page on Texas Hold'em and other games
Steve Badger's Play Winning Poker: Good general poker site
Abdul's Posev.com: Abdul's articles on poker are aimed at slightly more experienced players, but his musings are cited by numerous poker enthusiasts and writers as influential.
Gocee.com Poker Center: A great list of poker resources and information.
Party Poker Playing Guide: Some general strategy articles specific to Party Poker, and a free Party Poker hand re-player for reviewing your play.
Poker Pages #1 Poker Info portal worldwide: most-complete searchable database of Poker Rooms, daily-updated Events & Results, live-Audio Broadcasts, Articles, Seminars, Tips, Player Profiles & lively Forums.
Poker School Online: $100,000+ of Sponsorships, Weekly lessons, tests & interactive tournament play: Beginners/Intermediate levels. Closest to real world, safety of Play-Money: Bankroll, Rankings, Multi-Table Tournaments & Satellites. Brought to you by www.PokerPages.com
Pokerportal.co.uk: The most comprehensive list of poker links on the Web
Wsop.dk: Another huge poker links site
Conjelco's Poker Glossary: A glossary of poker terms from Lee Jones' Winning Low Limit Hold'em. Also check out the rec.gambling.poker FAQ
Poker Charts: A free, web-based, ad-supported service that allows you to track your poker play with charts and statistics. Recommended.
Pokeritis.com and Recpoker.com: Web-based front-ends for the rec.gambling.poker newsgroup


LowLimitHoldem.com: An excellent resource on playing low-limit hold'em
Online-Poker-Rules.com: A graphical overview of poker rules and starting hands
TexasHoldem-Poker.com: Strategies and info
Learn-Texas-Holdem.com: Some great articles on strategy and other game info
Chance's Free Winning Texas Holdem Poker: Some uncommon strategy tips, a comprehensive list of starting hand rankings, and a section on "nut" hands (the best hand in any given round)
Poker-Strategy.org: A great new strategy site!
Pokersyte.com: Strategy page on Texas Hold'em and other games
Steve Badger's Play Winning Poker: Good general poker site
Abdul's Posev.com: Abdul's articles on poker are aimed at slightly more experienced players, but his musings are cited by numerous poker enthusiasts and writers as influential.
Gocee.com Poker Center: A great list of poker resources and information.
Party Poker Playing Guide: Some general strategy articles specific to Party Poker, and a free Party Poker hand re-player for reviewing your play.
Poker Pages #1 Poker Info portal worldwide: most-complete searchable database of Poker Rooms, daily-updated Events & Results, live-Audio Broadcasts, Articles, Seminars, Tips, Player Profiles & lively Forums.
Poker School Online: $100,000+ of Sponsorships, Weekly lessons, tests & interactive tournament play: Beginners/Intermediate levels. Closest to real world, safety of Play-Money: Bankroll, Rankings, Multi-Table Tournaments & Satellites. Brought to you by www.PokerPages.com
Pokerportal.co.uk: The most comprehensive list of poker links on the Web
Wsop.dk: Another huge poker links site
Conjelco's Poker Glossary: A glossary of poker terms from Lee Jones' Winning Low Limit Hold'em. Also check out the rec.gambling.poker FAQ
Poker Charts: A free, web-based, ad-supported service that allows you to track your poker play with charts and statistics. Recommended.
Pokeritis.com and Recpoker.com: Web-based front-ends for the rec.gambling.poker newsgroup

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Pot Odds and Card Odds

Ok, so you've called in the first round of betting with a strong starting hand. If you've flopped a great hand, obviously you will continue playing as the situation warrants. If you've flopped a hand that can be easily beaten, or nothing at all, you fold. But what if you've flopped a hand that could become a great hand, if the cards fell right? Poker is a game of probability. A good poker player will take the odds into account when deciding whether to continue betting on a certain hand. The concept of pot odds is used to compare the odds of completing a hand to the potential payoff.

Calculating pot odds is simple. First, determine the value of the chips currently in the pot. Include any bets that other players have already placed on the table, and factor in any additional bets you think the players after you will make (these are called implied odds). Divide that by the value of the bet you need to call. For example, if there is $6 in the pot and you need to make a $1 bet to call, the pot odds are 1:6. For a $1 bet, you would make $6 if you won. The pot odds will need to be recalculated if another player raises after you. In that case, divide the size of the current pot by your first bet plus the raise.

You calculate the pot odds to determine whether to continue drawing towards a hand that you believe will win. The chart below shows the odds of completing or improving a hand on the turn and river cards, based on the number of outs your hand has. Outs are the number of cards left in the deck that will complete your hand. For example, if you've flopped a four card spade flush draw, and need one more spade to make your hand, then you have nine outs, or nine spades left in the deck. Or, if you're holding Ace-King on the turn, and you figure that either an Ace or a King will give you the winning hand, then you have six outs (three Aces and three Kings).

Compare the odds of making your hand to the pot odds. If the odds of making your hand are higher than the pot odds, then the potential payoff from winning doesn't justify the odds against making your hand, and you should fold. For example, if there is $8 in the pot, and you need $1 to call, then the pot odds are 1:8. You are holding 5c, 6s and the flop is 8c, 9d, Js, an inside straight draw. There are four outs for your hand (four 7's in the deck). The odds of making a hand with four outs is 1:11, greater than the pot odds of 1:8. In this case, you should fold. Another example: There is $8 in the pot, and you need to bet $1 to call, giving you pot odds of 1:8. You have a four card flush draw, giving you nine outs. The odds of making a hand with nine outs is 1:4. In this case, the pot is giving you good odds, and it is appropriate to call or raise.

To use the chart below, find the number of outs you have on the left. The center columns are a guideline as to the number of outs a particular drawing hand has. The right column represents the odds of making your hand on the next card (the turn or river). Use this column to determine your pot odds. The item listed in bold are the most common instances in which you'll need to calculate pot odds.


Odds of Completing a Hand on the Turn or River
Outs
If you have a…
And are drawing to a…
Pot Odds
1 Three of a Kind
Inside Straight Flush Draw Four of a Kind
Straight Flush 1 : 46

2
Pair
Open-ended Straight Flush Draw Three of a Kind
Straight Flush 1 : 23

3
Overcard (1 high hole card) Pair 1 : 15

4
Two Pair
Inside Straight Draw Full House
Straight 1 : 11

5
Pair Two Pair or Three of a Kind 1 : 8

6
Overcards (2 high hole cards) Pair 1 : 7

7
Three of a Kind Full House or Four of a Kind 1 : 6

8
Open-ended Straight Draw Straight 1 : 5

9
Flush Draw Flush 1 : 4

12 Inside Straight Flush Draw Straight Flush, Flush or Straight 1 : 3
15 Open-ended Straight Flush Draw Straight Flush, Flush or Straight 1 : 2

But what if you've flopped a three-card straight or flush draw (otherwise known as a backdoor draw)? Is it worth chasing the hand all the way to the river? Remember, you would need two perfect cards to make your hand. Below are the odds of completing a backdoor straight or flush draw on the turn and the river.

Odds of Completing a Backdoor Flush or Straight Draw
Backdoor Flush Draw 1 : 23
Backdoor Open-ended Straight Draw 1 : 38
Backdoor Inside Straight Draw 1 : 71

As you can see, the odds of completing these hands are long shots. Usually you should fold these hands. If you're getting sufficient odds (the pot is huge) or you have multiple draws or overcards (hole cards that are higher than anything on the board), then you can call.

Playing Styles: Understanding Your Opponents
Often you will hear adjectives such as "loose", "tight", "passive", "aggressive", and other terms applied to poker players. These adjectives refer to the playing style of different players. Understanding the dominant playing style at your table, or the playing style of a certain opponent, are important factors in determining how to alter your strategy for maximum profitability.

"Loose" vs. "tight" refers to the player's starting hand requirements. It is usually quite obvious which style a player is using. Below are definitions of the two styles.


Loose: A loose player plays a lot of hands, usually far too many. The typical loose player is a novice with an "any two cards can win" philosophy. They will see the flop a majority of the time, and will often play to the river with a marginal hand. Play money and low limit tables are notoriously loose. Loose players are not playing optimally, but at a loose table they will often profit from lucky draws. Loose tables can be quite profitable for good players, but excessively loose tables can be unprofitable for tight players, since they will often lose good hands to lucky draws by bad players. When playing at a loose table, loosen your starting hand requirements by playing more suited cards, connectors, and small pairs, but be prepared to fold if your hand doesn't improve.

Tight: A tight player will play fewer starting hands. Tight players take advantage of starting hand selection to increase their chances of drawing to a winning hand. At no-limit and high-limit tables playing tight is crucial, but in any case you generally want to play tighter than the other players at your table. Tight tables are generally not as profitable as loose tables, since fewer players will see the flop, but tight players will play more rationally than loose players.
Poker players are also categorized as "passive" or "aggressive". These adjectives refer to a player's betting style. Passive players rarely raise, preferring instead to check or call. But when passive players do raise, they generally have the best hand. Passives are very predictable and consistent. On the other hand, aggressive players raise frequently, and are often unpredictable. The combination of starting hand requirements and betting styles create four commonly recognized categories of players, listed here from worst to best:


Loose-passive: Often referred to as "calling stations", loose-passive players have a tendency to call any bet as long as they have a remote chance of winning. Loose-passives often will not raise when they have a good hand, but they often will not fold when they have a bad hand.


Loose-aggressive: Loose-aggressive players will make often-inappropriate raises. They will not always have the best hand when they raise, and will even raise with poor hands. Due to their inconsistent and irrational play, loose-aggressives are often called "maniacs". Playing against maniacs can be profitable if you win heads-up against them, but they can also be expensive to play against, due to the number of raises you'll have to call.


Tight-passive: Often referred to as "rocks", tight-passive players play few hands and play them cautiously. But if a tight-passive player starts raising all of a sudden, it is likely that they have the "nuts" (the best possible hand on the board). Playing tight-passive will keep you from losing money, but it won't make you much either.


Tight-aggressive: Tight-aggressive players also play few hands, but will be much more varied in the way they play those hands. If a tight-aggressive player raises, they may have a very good hand... or they might be bluffing. Tight-aggressive players utilize selective aggression. They will "slow play" good hands only to trap players with lesser hands into betting later in the round. They will raise to "represent" hands they don't have in order to make other players fold. Tight-aggressive is the standard that you should aspire to. You won't find many tight-aggressive players in the lower limits, but playing tight and aggressive (sans bluffing) can make you a winning low-limit player.

Poker Profit Tips
If you're like most players, you'd like to make a profit, however modest, playing online poker. While practice, knowledge and experience figure heavily into your bottom line, the following are a few important tips for maximizing your profit.
Table Selection
When it comes to making a profit in poker, table selection is one of the most important factors to consider. If you're sitting at a table that is too tight, too loose or too aggressive; or if the players are simply better than you, then it is not likely you will make a profit, regardless of your relative level of skill.

While different players prefer different styles of play, the general consensus is that the ideal table is loose-passive (Click here for an explanation of the different playing styles). That means lots of callers and few raises, especially before the flop. You will also want to play at tables where most, if not all of the players are worse than you. You will make most of your profit from other player's mistakes.

Lots of pre-flop raising reduces your potential profit. It also becomes more expensive to see the flop overall, which negatively affects your bankroll all those times when the flop doesn't hit you. It is always better to have six players calling one bet than three players calling two bets. Even though the pot size in both cases is the same, in the first situation you will make a profit of 5:1, whereas in the raising situation you will only make a profit of 2:1. Simply put, the more players there are putting money into the pot, the more profit there will be when you win.

A tighter game, where fewer players are calling before the flop and staying until the showdown, can also reduce your overall profit. But some players prefer a tight-passive table, since tight-passive opponents are rather predictable. A tight-passive table gives a player the opportunity to steal more pots, since you can often make other players fold with a well-timed raise.

Playing online gives you a great amount of flexibility in choosing your tables. Most online poker rooms, such as Ultimate Bet, list the percentage of players who are seeing the flop. A higher percentage means a looser game. All online poker rooms also list the average pot size. You do not necessarily want to play at the table with the highest average pot size, since this may indicate a lot of raises going into the pot. For loose-passive games, choose a table with a relatively high flop percentage and a reasonably average pot size.

Another factor to consider is the number of players at the table. Most online tables are ten-handed, which means you'll have to play relatively tight. You should take position into account and call before the flop with premium cards or good drawing hands. More players means more competition, so you'll have to show down better hands. At a six-handed table, you can play considerably looser than you can at a ten-handed table. The side effect of this is that you'll experience more variance (the swings in your bankroll will be greater). Some players prefer short-handed tables because you get to see the flop more often, and thus have more chances at winning the pot.

It will take some experience to learn what type of table is best for you. While you can't go wrong with a loose-passive table full of mediocre players, you may find that a loose-aggressive or tight-passive table suits you best. If you find yourself at a table where you are struggling to make a profit, don't hesitate to leave and join another table.

Time Spent at the Table
If your game has progressed to the point that you're routinely making a profit when you play, then you'll probably get the urge to spend more time at the tables. Of course, if you're making money, then more time at the tables means more profit. But be sure that you're not spending so much time sitting in one session that your concentration wanes and your game starts to suffer.

While each player's individual concentration and stamina may differ, I've found that in my personal experience, spending more than an hour at a time playing poker adversely affects my profit, since my concentration tends to wane and I gradually get impatient, or even go on tilt. If you're making money during a session, you should easily realize your profit goal within an hour of play (At the lower limits, this could be as much as 10 big bets or more). If you're not making money at a particular table after an hour, then you won't make money after two hours. Even if you're winning, leave the table after an hour (or whatever length of time works for you) and take a break. After you're refreshed and focused, you can sit down for another session and continue making money.

Raises in Loose, Low Limit Hold'em Games
All new poker players will start out in loose, low limit games. While most experienced players prefer the sort of loose-passive play present at a low limit table, others may have difficulty playing against opponents who repeatedly "suck out" and win with garbage hands and bad plays. A common complaint among low limit players is that opponents will not always fold to appropriate raises, and occasionally, mediocre low limit players will make incorrect raises. Knowing when to raise, and how to interpret an opponents raise is covered below. The following information assumes that you have made an appropriate table selection, and are not playing at a table that is overly aggressive or tight.

If you've got a great starting hand, especially a high pair (JJ or higher), don't hesitate to raise and reraise before the flop. One of the most common complaints among low-limit players is that opponents often suck out with inferior hands against a solid hand such as AA. The best way to win with these hands is to play them fast and aggressive. Raise before the flop, and keep on betting after the flop. Unless the game is ridiculously loose (and your opponents are ridiculously bad), almost all of your opponents will fold to your aggressive betting. You won't always win with AA or KK, but if you play them aggressively, the majority of the time you will.

Since many low limit players will play incorrectly and call bets and raises with just about any half-decent hand, you need to make sure that you are raising when you think you have the best hand. If you do have what you believe is the best hand at that point, then you need to raise to get other players out of the pot, who may draw out on you with an inferior hand. If you are repeatedly winning and showing down the best hands, then other players will start to respect your raises and get out of your way.

If you've flopped a decent hand (top pair with good kicker, two pair, etc.) and are betting on it, don't be scared off if someone raises it to two bets. Although you could very well be beaten, experience shows that bad players will sometimes raise with any decent pair, a draw or even overcards. Call the bet, and be prepared to call to the river unless the board looks scary or the action gets too intense. If you fold every time you get raised with a decent hand, then you'll lose out on some pots that you would have won, had you shown the hand down. Utilize pot odds to determine whether the payoff is big enough to justify putting in a few more bets, and observe your opponents play to determine whether the raise is valid.

On the other hand, if an opponent re-raises it to three bets, be very concerned. Generally, a mediocre low limit player will not reraise unless they have a great hand. Take time to study the board to determine what your opponent might have. You might be tempted to follow the above advice and call him to the river, hoping that he is bluffing. But time and time again, they will turn up a superior hand. Don't reraise unless you have the nuts, and if you don't have the absolute nuts, be prepared to call to the river.

Tilt
Every player experiences tilt at some point. For those new to the game, tilt is when you become frustrated and start playing recklessly. It is important to recognize when you're on tilt. Take a break, or get out of the game altogether before you lose more money. Remember, any money you lose can and will be won back later. Poker is a game of volatile, short-term ups and downs, and the important thing is winning over the long term.

Remember:

If you've been in the game too long and are getting tired or frustrated, STOP PLAYING!
If you've lost a substantial amount of money (more than the typical variance for your game or limit), STOP PLAYING!
If you get angry, STOP PLAYING!
And most importantly, HAVE FUN!

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How to Play Texas Hold'em

In Texas Hold'em, there are two face-down cards for each player and five face-up community cards. The player who makes the best five-card poker hand with any combination of their two face-down cards and the five community cards wins the round. In a Texas Hold'em game, a disc or other marker is used to indicate which person is the "dealer" for the round. There are no antes in Hold'em, instead, forced bets called blinds are used. Before the cards are dealt, the person to the left of the dealer posts a bet called the small blind, which is usually equal to half of the minimum bet. The person to the left of the small blind posts the big blind, which is equal to the minimum bet. The first two cards are dealt to each player face down (these are called the hole cards), and the person to the left of the big blind starts the first round of betting. (Notice that the big blind and small blind do not get to look at their cards before betting, thus the term "blind"). In the first round of betting, each player has three options: call, raise or fold. To call, the player must place a bet that is equal to the last bet placed. (For the first player in the round, this would be equal to the minimum bet.) A player may choose to raise their call bet by an additional amount, which the other players will then have to call. If one's hole cards are not favorable, the player may simply choose to fold and sit out the round.

After all the players have finished the first round of betting, the first three community cards are dealt face-up on the board. This is called the flop. The second and all subsequent betting rounds start with the first player to the dealer's left, and players now has the option to check. By checking, the player indicates interest in the pot without placing a bet. Any player may choose to place a bet, which the other players must then call. Players can still raise, if a bet has been made, or fold, if their hand is not favorable. After the second betting round, the fourth community card is dealt face-up (this is called the turn card). In limit games, the minimum bet doubles in the last two rounds of betting. After the third betting round, the fifth and final community card is dealt (this is called the river card). A final round of betting ensues, and afterwards each player turns their hole cards face up. The highest hand that can be made with any combination of a player's hole cards and the five community cards wins the pot. If two or more players have the same hand, the next highest card in the player's hand (the kicker) is used to break a tie. If there is no kicker card (the tied players have used both hole cards, or have the exact same hand), then the pot is split between them. The dealer button is then passed clockwise to the next player and another round of play begins.

Click Here for a clear graphical summary of the rules of Texas Hold'em

There are three kinds of Hold'em games. In Limit games, bets and raises are set at a fixed amount. A typical limit game would be $10/$20 ($10 minimum bet for the first two rounds, and $20 minimum for the last two rounds.) The big blind would be equal to the minimum bet ($10) and the small blind would be half the minimum bet ($5). Each round of betting is capped at a maximum number of raises, depending on the rules of the game. In online Hold'em games, raises are generally capped at four bets per round. New players will start with low-limit games and gradually work their way up to higher limits as their skill progresses.

In No Limit Hold'em, the maximum bet is determined by the number of chips you have in front of you. Players can bet and raise by any amount, and at any time, a player can go "all-in" by pushing all their chips toward the center of the table. To call, the other players at the table must push in all of their chips, up to the amount of their opponent's all-in bet. This is the type of Hold'em that is played on the pro level, and on TV shows such as the World Poker Tour and the World Series of Poker.

Pot Limit Hold'em is similar to No Limit, except that the maximum bet is determined by the number of chips currently in the pot. This allows players to experience the excitement and strategy of No Limit Hold'em without the necessity of a large bankroll. Pot Limit games usually have a maximum buy-in (the number of chips you start with) to keep the game competitive.

The Importance of Position
One's position at the table in relation to the "dealer" is an important strategical factor in Texas Hold'em. The players sitting to the left of the dealer, including the blinds, are in early position. Early position puts the player at a disadvantage, because the player cannot observe how his opponents will act before playing his hand. An early position player who calls or bets on a weak hand may find themselves faced with a raise by another player, making it more expensive to play on with that hand. If the raiser does indeed have a strong hand, the early position player is likely beat and has wasted their bet. An early position player with a strong hand will find it harder to increase the pot by raising, unless other players raise after him.

The players sitting to the right of the dealer, including the dealer himself, are in late position. Late position gives the player a strategic advantage, since the player can observe how his opponents act before playing his hand. The dealer is in the strongest position ("on the button") because they have the advantage of acting last. A late position player can decide to play a weak hand if there have been no bets or raises before him. A late position player with a strong hand has more opportunity to increase the size of the pot by betting or raising. Late position gives the player an information advantage. By observing how the other players bet their hand, the late position player can make an informed decision on how to play their hand. Consideration on whether to play a certain starting hand (see below) is based mostly on one's position at the table. A strong hand can be played in any position, while a weaker or marginal hand should only be played in later position, when the player can decide if their hand has a chance of winning against the other players.

Starting Hands
An important part of mastering Texas Hold'em is learning which starting hands are most playable, and in what position. Every book on Texas Hold'em goes in-depth on starting hands and their rankings. A few resources on starting hand rankings are listed below.

There are 169 possible starting hands in Texas Hold'em, and at least half are considered to be unplayable. The following list is an easy to read guide as to which hands have the potential to be played. Unlike other starting hand lists, this list does not rank each individual hand by strength, although the list is organized roughly from the strongest hands to the weakest. This list merely serves as a guide as to which hands have the potential to be played, and in what position. Players are strongly encouraged to consult other sources to learn more about starting hand rankings and strategy.

This list is appropriate for situations that require tight play. At most low limit tables, you can shade these hand requirements down a bit and play a bit looser, but you shouldn't call with hands that are not on this list. Approximately half of the 169 starting hands are on this list, and all of them statistically have at least a 10% chance of winning at a ten-handed table. The hands listed in bold comprise the top 10 hands, and can be raised and re-raised in any position. The hands listed in yellow can be called in early position, and raised in middle and late position. The hands listed in orange can be called in middle or late position. The hands listed in white should be called in late position only.

Playable Starting Hands
A = Ace, K = King, Q = Queen, J = Jack, T = Ten, 2-9 = Card value, x = Unknown card, s = Same suit
Any Pair - These have high pair, trips (set), full house, or four of a kind possibilities. Raise and reraise with high pairs.

AA, KK, QQ, JJ, TT, 99, 88, 77, 66, 55, 44, 33, 22

Ax, Kx, Qx, Jx, and Tx Suited - These have high pair, trips, flush, straight and straight flush possibilities. Any Ace, King or Queen suited can be played for flush possibilities, depending on position.
AKs, AQs, AJs, ATs, A9s, A8s, A7s, A6s, A5s, A4s, A3s, A2s
KQs, KJs, KTs, K9s, K8s, K7s, K6s, K5s, K4s, K3s, K2s
QJs, QTs, Q9s, Q8s, Q7s, Q6s, Q5s, Q4s, Q3s, Q2s
JTs, J9s, J8s. J7s, J6s, J5s
T9s, T8s, T7s, T6s

Ax, Kx, Qx, Jx, Tx Unsuited - These have high pair or straight possibilities. Only play unsuited cards with a combined value of 21 or higher.

AK, AQ, AJ, AT, A9
KQ, KJ, KT, K9
QJ, QT, Q9
JT, J9
T9

9x and Lower Suited - Two suited cards that are consecutive (suited connectors) or one-gapped can potentially be played. These have mostly flush or straight possibilities.
98s, 97s, 96s
87s, 86s, 85s
76s, 75s
65s, 64s
54s, 53s
43s

Bold = Raise and reraise. Yellow = Call early, raise middle and late. Orange = Call middle and late. White = Call late only.

Click here for a printable version of this chart

Any starting hand that is not listed above should be folded. You should expect to fold before the flop the majority of the time (In my experience, playing "tight" means you'll see the flop with approximately 25-33% of the hands you're dealt). Playing strong hands, depending on position and situation, will increase your winnings and curtail your losses in the long run. Patience is key when it comes to winning in Texas Hold'em. But keep in mind that any starting hand can be beaten. A strong starting hand increases your chances of drawing to a winning hand, but be prepared to fold if your hand does not improve and another player is representing a better hand.

Here are some more resources on starting hands in Hold'em:

Lowlimitholdem.Com Starting Hands: Tutorial on starting hands for low-limit hold'em
El Paso Chance's Hole Cards Table: A ranked, comprehensive list of all 169 starting hands with statistics (The above list was statistically verified with information from this site)
Online-Poker-Rules.Com Starting Hands: A graphical list of the top 42 starting hands

Playing on the Flop
The flop is the most important part of the hand. This is where you'll find out whether your hand has a shot at winning or not. Many poker novices lose money by playing after the flop with hands that have little or no chance of winning. Regardless of what your starting hand is, the flop will either give you the best hand (or close to it), a good chance at a winning hand, or nothing at all. Even with a strong starting hand, if the flop doesn't hit you at least once and the board offers the possibility of a better hand for someone else, you should consider folding. Even with tight starting hand selection, more often than not, the flop will be unfavorable to you.

The chart below illustrates the possibilities where you can continue playing on the flop. The information on this chart was derived from Lee Jones' Winning Low Limit Hold'em. If you're new to Hold'em, this book is strongly recommended. Jones gives you a compete strategy for low-limit hold'em, and explains the finer points of playing these hands, as well as more advanced strategies such as the free card play and the check-raise. You can use the chart below as a cheat sheet or a supplement to the book when you're playing online.

Note that these are guidelines for playing these hands. The circumstances at your particular table and one's personal experience may suggest a different strategy. Many of the circumstances listed below assume that you have the correct pot odds to call. (If this is all new to you, read the page on pot odds first. Also read the Conjeclo poker glossary for clarification of unfamiliar poker terms)

If you've flopped… Possible actions
Overcards
Check and fold. Call if you have a backdoor draw and high pot odds.

Top Pair with High Kicker
Bet and raise. If re-raised, raise again if you think you have the best hand, otherwise call.

Top Pair with Poor Kicker
Fold if there's much action. If you're first or last to act, bet or raise if you think everyone else will fold.

Middle or Bottom Pair
Check and fold. Call if you have an overcard and/or a backdoor draw with high pot odds.

Two Pair
Bet and raise. If re-raised, raise again if you have top two pair. Otherwise, call.

Pair on the Board
Fold if your pair is lower, or there's much action. In late position, bet when it's checked to you if you think everyone will fold.

Three of a Kind (Set)
Raise and re-raise, unless you are certain (or uncertain) that you have the best hand.

Three of a Kind (Pair on Board)
Bet and raise. Call if someone else re-raises, unless you have a high kicker.

Inside Straight Draw
Bet or call if you have favorable pot odds, or two overcards and/or multiple draws. Fold if the board is paired, or if there are three suited cards on the board.

Open-ended Straight Draw
Bet or raise if you have the nut draw. Call if the board is paired, or if there are two suited cards on the board. Fold if there are three suited cards on the board.

Flush Draw
Bet or raise if you have an ace high draw, otherwise call.

Straight
Raise and re-raise. Slow play if an ace high straight.

Flush
Raise and re-raise. Slow play if an ace high flush.

Full House
Slow play if your set is the higher rank. Bet and raise if your set is the lower rank, or you don't have the pocket pair.

Four of a Kind or Straight Flush
Slow play if you have the nuts, otherwise bet and raise.


Click Here for a printable version of this chart.

If you play your hand appropriately on the flop, you still have to watch the turn and river cards to see if one of your opponents have possibly improved. If you believe you still have the best hand, or your hand has improved, continue to bet and raise with it. Otherwise, just check or call. If you're playing a pair or two pair, and an overcard to your pair comes on the turn and there is a raise, it's possible you may be beaten. If you're playing a straight draw, and the third card to a flush falls on the turn, folding is a wise idea. If the board pairs on the turn or river, proceed with caution. One of your opponents may have landed trips or a full house. For more on playing the turn and the river, read Winning Low Limit Hold'em.

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Poker: books about poker!

Winning Low Limit Hold'em by Lee Jones: The "Bible" on low-limit Hold'em

Hold'em Poker, Hold'em Poker for Advanced Players and The Theory of Poker by David Sklansky: The original classic texts on Hold'em and poker theory

Internet Texas Hold'em: Winning Strategies from an Internet Pro by Matthew Hilger: Many books have been released in the past year on the subject of online poker. This is one of the best rated new books on the topic!

The Complete Book of Hold 'Em Poker: A Comprehensive Guide to Playing and Winning by Gary Carson: Frequent RGP contributor and firebrand Gary Carson presents a thorough examination of Texas Hold'em. Teaches the player to think and adjust strategies based on circumstances.

Championship No Limit and Pot Limit Hold'em by TJ Cloutier and Tom McEvoy: The definitive text on tournament hold'em

Super/System by Doyle Brunson: Written in the late seventies, Brunson's chapter on no limit hold'em is the original classic text on the game

Play Poker like the Pros by Phil Hellmuth Jr: Learn strategy from the youngest-ever winner of the World Series of Poker.

Positively Fifth Street by James McManus: (Non-fiction) This book is an account of the author's journey to the final table of the 2000 World Series of Poker. Read my review here.

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